FRIDAY 16th SEPTEMBER 2011 (Spluga Pass)

After the deflating experience of yesterday (finding metal in the sump) we decided to get into town early, hire a car, and head south to Italy regardless of the sad state of affairs our bike was in.

We weren't going to miss Moto Guzzi's 90th Anniversary party for anyone so away we went.

We crossed in to Austria for a short distance before crossing the border to Switzerland. We planned on driving the back roads, partly to avoid the auto-strada which you have to pay a considerable amount to drive on but we lost so much time driving through the villages we gave in and bought the road pass.

As it turned out the auto-strada ran alongside the 'free' road and we saw exactly the same scenes, the only thing is we made better time.

We drove down (I should say 'up') to the tiny village of Splugen, then found the beginning of the SPLUGA PASS, one of the mountain roads between Switzerland & Italy.

We knew we were heading in the right direction as we were passed by at least 300 Moto Guzzi's. It certainly helped to build the excitement.

It didn't, however, help stop the screaming match which lasted from almost the bottom of the pass to the top...!!! The road was VERY narrow and me being on the passenger side could only see a few millimeters between myself and the drop-off to eternity! Things did settle down as we neared the top and descended the other side.

We stopped at the top of the PASSO di SPLUGA to take in the magnificent vista - Switzerland on one side, Italy on the other.


There was a marked difference in landscape, houses and presentation on the other side. The buildings were much older and more derelict, less colour in the landscape and a much poorer economy than in Switzerland (as you'd expect).

We thought it was steep going 'up' the SPLUGA but it was much steeper and more difficult to negotiate going down the other side. Stunningly beautiful but in the car it took both of us to drive - one on the lookout for any cars driving up and the other negotiating the road to enable us to take the corner. We came close to having to do a three-point turn on a couple of corners but we managed to get around. Not sure how sometimes, but we did.


As we descended we came across the first lakes in the northern Italian Alps. They were glacial in colour and quite beautiful...not in a picture-perfect way, but in a landscape setting unlike any other we've ever seen.

We continued on, knowing we weren't too far from Mandello del Lario. The presence of Guzzi's on the road were increasing and didn't they sound good going through the tunnels. We drove with our windows down!

We arrived at MANDELLO del LARIO around 5.30pm. We did wonder how far away from the 'party' we would have to park the car but as luck would have it we got a permanent and safe car park one block from the action.

It was hard to focus on the job of finding a camping spot. There were

T-H-O-U-S-A-N-D-S of Guzzi's and people in every direction and with every step we saw something new and interesting.

The whole lakeshore of Mandello was closed off for motorcyclists only. At the time we were beginning to think we wouldn't find a tent spot but we did. I stood guard on the plot while Paul walked back to the car to get the tent. If I hadn't, that spot would've gone ten times over. We soon got 'home' set up which freed us up to look around and get orientated to what's happening in Mandello.

We sat and ate and enjoyed watching bike after bike roll in. Where on earth are they going to set up camp? We thought there was no more room. Thousands rode in and they all found a spot. The nature strips were taken, front yards, church yards, in fact, anywhere there was a space was allowed to be used as a tent site for the weekend. The town was serious about its Guzzi Anniversary.

We did hear that soon after we drove through the Police closed the road in to Mandello to all but motorcyclists and local residents.

LET THE PARTY BEGIN.

THURSDAY 15th SEPTEMBER (Magnets & Metal - ARRRGGHHH)

We were up early, excited with the fact that we were heading off to Italy for the 90th Anniversary party of Moto Guzzi.

Paul's job was to take the bike for a test ride to check that all was well. An easy task when you live on the edge of town. Fingers were crossed that Brunhilda went through her paces with no drama's.

My job was to pack our belongings ready for stage two of our trip. I got everything together, had my bike pants on and while half melting in the heat,  Paul said..."Listen to the engine and tell me what you think?"

Well, I'm no mechanic but I knew instantly that we weren't going anywhere today!
B-U-G-G-E-R.
I unpacked and got out of those hot trousers.

Paul then removed the sump and found magnetic particles in the oil. Now that's something no bike owner wants to see. He also discovered excessive movement in the big end - not a good sign at all. We were gutted.

Paul spent part of the day putting all the bike pieces back together, minus oils, then cried. Well not really cried but we were bitterly disappointed.

All the places we wanted to go to on this trip seemed to be slipping away and unreachable.

When Tobi came home Paul helped him build the framework for the new steps to the deck above the shed. That was supposed to take his mind off the problems at hand!

While the construction work was going on I cooked up a pomodoro sauce to have with pasta, hot bread roll and LOTS of red wine. It was the medicine we needed while we contemplated our choices from here on.

WEDNESDAY 14th SEPTEMBER 2011 (Dinkelsbuhl)

The day was already planned for us - finish assembling Brunhilda so we can get on the road again. We are almost thinking about the road again...but not quite. We've learnt to take things as they come.

The day was productively spent putting the bike back together. All complete except the sidecar.





Tobi came home from the Black Forest mid-afternoon and Christine came home from work soon after.

It was planned that we would go for a drive to the historic city of DINKELSBUHL to see the walled village, another one not destroyed by the wars.

Stunning. Quite different to Rothenburg but still fascinating.
It is totally surrounded by 15th Century medieval walls and towers.




We enjoyed a home brew in the sunshine and just absorbed the atmosphere of the village.

We then wandered about the streets enclosed within the wall - the buildings and colours are just delightful.

It was near on dark when we left for home, 20 minutes away.

After tea the midnight oil was burnt to get the sidecar on Brunhilda, fire her up and get ready for departure tomorrow. At last, after 10 days we can finally get back on the road.

TUESDAY 13th SEPTEMBER 2011 (Just like home)

After what seemed like an all night drive we slept till mid-morning.

Tobi was home but about to head off to the Black Forest for work so what was left of the morning soon disappeared with chatter.

Then, it was down to the business of assembling Brunhilda. Paul has use of a great shed up the back and access to plenty of tools which makes the job at hand much easier.

The hours passed by and the gearbox and diff were re-attached. This took a lot longer than planned.


I got the lawn-mower out and mowed the side and front lawns. I couldn't help but think this was like being at home. Paul working in the shed and me in the garden!

MONDAY 12th SEPTEMBER 2011 (Zundapp Doctor)

We were up early so we could be at Peter's shop bright and early. We missed him last visit but am pleased to finally meet up.

We put the diff and gearbox up on the workbench and then all eyes were glued to find out what's going on.

I took a photo and was immediately reprimanded by Peter ... "STOP", he said. "THIS IS MILITARY AND THEREFOR TOP SECRET".

I felt really bad...for about 1 second. When I saw the smirk on his face which quickly broke out into a huge grin and then a loud laugh, I knew I wasn't going to prison!

Josef and Simon got to work dismantling everything. The whole process worked like clockwork - I suspect they've done this a few thousand times before!

A price estimate was worked out (which was fairly hefty) but what do we do? We are on the other side of the world with a broken bike.

Yep, fix her up.

Paul was shown every part and what was wrong so we have a very good understanding of its condition.

We drove to MONCHENGLADBACH to attempt a bank robbery! We are only allowed to withdraw a certain amount of cash each day and we now needed to withdraw many days worth of money. We went to three banks three times and tried every card in our wallets. I'm sure the bank tellers were looking at us suspiciously as we kept on attempting to rob the cash machine!

The diff AND gearbox had all the shafts, gears and bearings replaced. Also, we found out why the clutch wouldn't disengage properly so promptly got the necessary throw-out bearing to replace the existing one.

Connie joined us and then we were taken to MONCHENGLADBACH where we had the best baguette we've ever eaten. Thanks Connie & Peter.

The damage bill came in a little under what was expected. There was some friendly 'play' where Paul acted really sad to be paying and Peter was really happy to receive the cash.

We bid our farewells to Peter, Connie, Simon & Josef at the end of the day.

We revisited the largest POLO motorcycle store in JUCHEN and finally got on the road at 7.00pm.

We made our way in to COLOGNE to check out the city sights while there's still plenty of daylight and, more importantly, less traffic.

Our first sight was the massive gothic KOLN Cathedral which has to be one of the most amazing buildings in the world. As the sun set and the spot lights came on the Cathedral looked even better and a bit spooky.

There was a large courtyard all around the Cathedral which led to the main Barnhoff (train station) which has a lattice roof - it looked great in the dimming light.

We walked to the Rhein River and watched the daylight disappear and the city lights begin reflecting in the water. We watched the boats motor up and down the river. It was all quite splendid. We were surprised at the strength of the current. The boats left quite a wake.

Before we knew it, it was 10.00pm and so we decided to make tracks for home. Not sure we'd make it all the way but we finally arrived in Crailsheim and fell into bed at 2.30am.

One thing that helped is the best radio station in the world SWR3. They play 'English' songs specialising in a great mix of songs from the 60's and 70's as well as contemporary. I've lost count of how many times we said..."Gee, haven't heard that song for

Y-E-A-R-S".

SUNDAY 11th SEPTEMBER 2011 (Crossing Germany)

We came up with the great idea of driving to the other side of Germany to H-P HOMMES Zundapp shop to get the parts required and get them to check the gearbox.
It's only a five hour drive and Christine has offered her car for our use. Maybe they want to get rid of us!


But first, we had a date at Frank's place to check out his Honda collection. For me, any chance to see 'Guinness' again has to be a good deal.

It's great to see passion in a collector and Frank certainly has plenty of that when it comes to his Honda's.

We saw our first CB 750/4 K0. To compare, there is a very tidy K2 right next door. Both in excellent condition. There are various other models dotted about and what seemed like a warehouse of parts but Franks pride and joy is his Magni Honda, and rightly so.

Frank likes a chat and we learnt lots about the Honda's. He's a funny man considering his job is technical and serious. He translates German technical motorcycle manuals into English for BMW (and other companies as time permits).

It seemed we weren't in a hurry to leave - Frank is very entertaining - but the time came to say farewell and get ready for our long drive.

Reading the sign on Franks gate gives you an idea of his humour. Great bloke.

Paul & Tobi packed the Zundapp diff and gearbox in to the car and we finally got on our way mid-afternoon.

It was straight to Juchen on the autobahn - it's the quickest way to go and it will still take us five hours.

We didn't bargain on missing our turn-off five kilometers from Crailsheim! No matter, the views of the autobahn bridges from the little back roads were quite splendid.

Finally we joined the main road and away we went, heading towards Frankfurt, then west towards Koln.

We could see the sky turning a nasty black ahead and much lightning flashing across the entire sky. A few minutes later the deluge pelted down on us. Traffic was slowed to 40 kph, it was that hard to see. There was much water sitting on the road adding the danger of aquaplaning to the hazardous conditions.

For once we were VERY pleased to be in a car but at the same time, here we are on the autobahn driving slower than the Zundapp can travel at!

We drove through Juchen to arrive at Kelzenburg where we booked the same room at the same Gasthof we stayed in 3 weeks ago.

We were lucky to get the only room left and made it just in time to order a meal. We were warmly greeted by Horst, the caretaker, and we told him our 'fahrt' wasn't so good!

SATURDAY 10th SEPTEMBER 2011 (It's not funny any more!)

Tobi was up early, his mission to finish fixing the tin on to the new shed roof.

I woke feeling great and Paul went to the shed with the purpose of dismantling the gearbox.
It's the little voice in the head that says, if you don't check it, it will break. If you do, it might be okay!


Paul found a collapsed bearing in the diff and the gearbox. On the surface it appeared to be okay. But still, that niggling voice said "I don't trust it".


It's now Saturday, parts can't be ordered till Monday and wont arrive till middle of next week and then the bike has to be reassembled. Another week at least not travelling.
If we order the parts and not all of them arrive then we lose more days. Luckily we don't have a schedule!

Christine & I relocated lots of building materials off the grass then I got busy and mowed the lawns while Tobi finished the shed roof.

It was decided we'd have a barbecue tea and the surrounding neighbours would join us.

I'd have to say the spread is equal to or better than any good Aussie barbecue we've had. Good on ya Tobes & Christine...excellent food.

We met Hans & Simone from up the back, along with their beautiful little girls Lisa & Laura. Next there was Yvonne, Juergen & son Philipp from upstairs. And the family from two doors down consisting of Suzie and kids Shannon, Sean & Megan. We were later joined by dad Frank who is an effervescent character. He'd just returned from a Honda 750/4 rally. A rally just for one model of bike! There are SOOOO many bike events here it makes our head spin.

As the night progressed and the food part was over we moved to the camp fire. It's here we were joined by an Irish Wolfhound called 'Guiness'.

What a beautiful, gentle, old dog.

He belongs to Frank & Suzie.

The evening was perfectly calm and warm. Stories were shared and ale drunk until one by one everyone went to bed.

The stayers lasted till 2.00am!

That was one advantage of being broken down - we got to experience a normal Saturday night at home in down-town Crailshiem.